Monday, March 28, 2016

Itinerary Scratch Pad

This is intended as a "live" post. We'll add destinations and an estimated duration as we make more or less firm decisions about our itinerary. We'll order them after the entire list is complete.

Number of weeks currently estimated: 16
  • Start trip in Mexico City - 2-3 weeks or 2 weeks, plus a week in Oaxaca (or elsewhere)
  • St. Petersburg - 2-3 weeks (see also the post Trans-Siberian Railway - March 2016)
  • Vietnam - Cambodia - 2 weeks, plus one week Mekong River cruise
  • End trip in Europe - 2 months

Mexico City

It's feeling increasingly likely that Mexico City will be our first stop. Today's research: get a sense of how long we should spend there.

Initial thought: 2 weeks, plus a week at a culinary school in Oaxaca or elsewhere, OR 3 weeks, with one or two half-day or so cooking classes in Mexico City

Art and Culture
  • The Spanish Cultural Center
  • Museo del Juguete Antiguo Mexico
  • Museo Nacional de Antropologia
  • Palacio de Bellas Artes
  • Museo Frida Kahlo
  • Museo Casa de Leon Trotsky
  • Luis Barragan House and Studio (preeminent Mexican architect)
  • Biblioteca de Mexico Jose Vasconcelos 
Food and Music
  • Plaza Garibaldi - mariachi every night
  • Salon Tenampa
  • Mercado de MedellĂ­n
  • Folkloric Ballet
  • National Music Conservatory
Outdoors
  • Zocalo (main plaza) -- flag raising and lowering each evening
  • Paseo de la Reforma on Sundays by foot or bike (EcoBici--1 day $90)
  • Parque Mexico/Parque Espana
  • Castillo de Chaputepec (free on Sundays)
  • Monumento a la Revolucion
  • Bazar del Sabado (arts and crafts market on Saturdays)
  • Plaza de la Angel (antique market)
  • Plaza la Ciudadela (dancing) / La Ciudadela Mercado de Artesanias  
Short Trips and Tours
    • Iztaccihuatl Volcano Hiking Tour (12 hours, including travel) ($48) 
    • Market Tour: La Merced, Sonora, San Juan Markets (Viator, from $21) 
    • Teotihuacan Pyramids (Viator self-guided tour, from $26) 
    • Xochimilco (flower market)
    Sites visited
    36 hours in Mexico City (NY Times, 2014)
    Lonely Planet
    AirBnB (cool filter for choosing a neighborhood)
    AFAR (a "multi-platform travel media brand" US-based)

    Sunday, March 27, 2016

    Money-saving Travel Tips from Thrillest

    Ways to Save Money When You Travel (a Thrillest list)
    Full post (with explanations and links) here

    The full list has 100 tips, but I've not included the tips that are exclusive to the US

    1. Don't use US-based search engines exclusively to book flights
    2. Don't book your flight too early
    3. Use our step-by-step guide to hack cheap airfares using foreign websites and currency
    4. Use hidden-route ticketing when booking your flight
    5. Clear browser cookies to avoid dynamic pricing
    6. Fly budget airlines
    7. Join OneGo, an all-you-can-fly airline service
    8. Use our step-by-step guide to finding deals on Google Flights
    9. Visit one of these 10 countries where it's cheap to visit (<$25/day) or these 12 (<$50/day)
    10. Visit one of Europe's 10 cheapest countries or cheaper alternatives to more popular European vacation spots
    11. Use BlaBlaCar and other ride-sharing websites
    12. Take public transportation, walk, or bike and avoid cabs
    13. Use these Uber hacks (link is broken today, so maybe it's been removed?)
    14. WWOOFING or HelpX
    15. Don't book hotels online, always call the non-800 number instead
    16. Stay in a hostel; here's a list of upscale hostels
    17. Eleven 5-star hotels for <$100
    18. Use WhatsApp or Viber for everything communication. Use Google+ and Skype for phone calls.
    19. Use local SIM cards
    20. Tell your mobile provider you're going abroad
    21. Turn off data roaming and roaming assist
    22. Six tips for hacking into free Wi-Fi at the airport (another link that's not working today; maybe removed)
    23. Learn how to spot a tourist-trap restaurant
    24. Eat street food and visit the local markets
    25. Avoid paying bank fees
    26. Take out larger sums to avoid fees and avoid getting pickpocketed
    27. Don't exchange money at the airport
    28. Get one of the best travel rewards cards
    29. Pay with credit card whenever possible to get the best exchange rate
    30. Download/take free walking tours
    31. Get the city tourism card
    32. Visit the local tourism office
    33. Ask  hostel staff for advice
    34. Take advantage of museum free days
    35. Tap into meetup.com groups
    36. Book cruises or tours within the last few days of departure or really far in advance. Cruise booking tips.
    37. Travel during the low season; use AARP discount
    38. Look at local newspapers for coupons
    39. Ask people on Twitter where the deals are
    40. Budget travel apps
    41. Use a travel agent (can get deals that aren't online)
    42. In Europe, Eurail or buy train tickets in advance
    43. In New Zealand, that the Naked Bus
    44. In Japan, buy a Japan Rail Pass

    Saturday, March 26, 2016

    Trans-Siberian Railway

    Could it be fun to cross Russia by train? The research begins ...

    • The main trans-Siberian line runs from Moscow to Vladivostok; according to Seat61.com, most westerners travel on either the Trans-Mongolian line or Trans-Manchurian line. Demand usually exceeds supply. 
    • Trans-Mongolian line leaves Beijing for Moscow every Wednesday night. The trip is 4735 miles and takes 6 nights. $1130 for 1st class 2-berth (2x prices of 4-berth). Slight price increase for stopovers along the way.
    • Trans-Manchurian line leaves Beijing every Saturday night. 
    • Can be fully booked in summer, so have to book through an agency, like Real Russia. Some agencies mark price up according to market demands. Shop around for quotes.
    • As a general rule, quality trains have low numbers; slower, low-quality trains have 3-digit train numbers.
    • Most hassle-free way to arrange the trip is through a western travel agency, who can arrange visa, hotel, train reservations, stop-overs and tours, connecting trains to China or a ship to Japan. After 20 minutes of reading about this, THIS OPTION APPEALS!

    Sites visited
    Seat 61 -- the map is from this site and it is filled with useful information.


    Friday, March 25, 2016

    St. Petersburg

    St. Petersburg -- "The Venice of the North" -- is another destination that we think will likely be in our Top 20, so today's research is to validate that assumption and estimate how much time we'd want to spend there.

    Fast Facts
    Culture
    • 221 museums
    • The Mariinsky is closed in August and most of the ballet troupes are out of the country
    • 2000 libraries
    • 80 theaters 
    • 100 concert organizations
    • 45 galleries and exhibition halls
    • 80 other cultural establishments
    Tourist Tips
    • Best time to visit is June during White Nights (end of May through mid-July); can be tough to get accommodations during the last 10 days of June
    • Cheaper to fly to Estonia and take the Eurolines bus (8 hours)
    • Last Sunday of July is a NAVI day -- modern NAVI ships of Baltic fleet are open for visitors

    Sites visited:
    Wikipedia
    The Telegraph article (reader's tips and travel advice) (2012)
    The Guardian article (The insider's cultural guide to St. Petersburg (March, 2015)
    Wikitravel
    Lonely Planet
    Local travel company

    Thursday, March 24, 2016

    "Voluntourism"

    The neologism is a bit off-putting, but volunteering appeals, especially opportunities that pair the volunteer with a host family.

    Habitat Global Village Volunteer program
    • In 40 countries abroad
    • most trips seem to be between 8 and 12 days
    • About half the program cost goes towards the project; the other half covers volunteer's expenses
    • On-ground trip coordination seems to be included in most trips
    • Engagement includes rest and cultural activities

    Projects Abroad
    • Active for over 20 years; worldwide office; hundreds of projects. Brochure
    • Prices include food and lodging; airport pick up and drop off; necessary work-related transportation; travel and medical insurance (to age 65); support etc etc.
    • Volunteer responsible for flights, visas etc.
    • "Grown-up Special" projects for volunteers over 50. Currently in South Africa, Nepal and Jamaica. Two-weeks, with a group. Example pricing: South Africa = $3170; Nepal $2195
    • Founded in New Zealand in 2000
    • Projects in Africa, Asia and the Americas
    • $250 application fee + $495/week for up to four weeks, then $200/week thereafter
    • Includes accommodation, meals, coordination, supervision, training, airport pick up
    Five tips from Shannon O'Donnell, who wrote a book on volunteer tourism, The Volunteer Traveler's Handbook.
    • Understand development and aid -- to avoid projects with questionable ethics
    • Choose a good fit; assess time commitment and personal volunteer motives
      • independent volunteering - for long-term travelers with flexible itinerary; all self-arranged
      • placement companies - for specific type of volunteering; medium level of facilitation
      • voluntours - high level of facilitation; bulk of fee goes to the company
      • social enterprises: skip the volunteering and donate to local communities as you travel
    • Research organizations in your area of interest; links to many sites for researching included
    • Ask the right questions; Full list of questions here, but the core issues are
      • where's the money going
      • how is the organization working with the community
      • what is expected of volunteers
    • Then take a break, take a deep breath, and start the detailed planning

    Alternative Housing

    To budget for the pricey adventures I've been researching, it is probably prudent to get educated about less expensive alternatives to AirBnB and hotels.

    HelpX (Help Exchange) -- "HelpX is an online listing of host organic farms, non-organic farms, farmstays, homestays, ranches, lodges, B&Bs, backpackers hostels and even sailing boats who invite volunteer helpers to stay with them short-term in exchange for food and accommodation."
    • launched in 2001 by a Brit
    • must have a "helper" membership for each country (similar to WWOOFing); "premier" membership (which allows direct contact with hosts) is 20 Euros for 2-years
    • work visa may be required
    • expect to work (hard) 3-6 hours a day on average
    • recommended to bring your own bedding -- this would be a deal-breaker
    • travel insurance highly recommended
    Trusted Housesitters --  "By offering your time and care for other's pets for free, you can enjoy staying for free in locations world-wide, whether you're looking for a weekend or a few months."
    • Annual plan $99
    • Pet care almost always a requirement
    • houses in 80 countries (though it appears to be primarily in North America, Europe and Australia; 4 in South America and 11 in South Africa; none in Asia)
    MindMyHouse -- "We're an established global matching service dedicated to bringing house sitters and home owners together online. By searching our database you may be able to find that perfect 'change of scene' you've been looking for. House sitting can be a free arrangement that benefits all parties."
    • $20 annual membership
    • Appears to be many more house owners than Trusted Housitters (e.g., 197 in Brazil; 76 in South Africa)
    HouseCarers -- "HouseCarers has been securely matching Homeonwers with House Sitters since October 2000. We have researched the practice of house sitting and created acceptable guidelines to help our members make informed decisions. We use the power of the internet to connect our members across United States and around the world."
    • Australian company
    • $50 annual membership
    • Appears to be primarily North America, Europe and Australia/New Zealand

    Wednesday, March 16, 2016

    Burma / Myanmar

    I was talking with a woman yesterday who has traveled to over 100 countries. I asked her to pick 5 countries that are at the top of her list. Burma was one. Burma caught my attention since I also happen to be reading a book that's set there (Elephant Company -- quite good) and I wondered myself whether we should investigate it. We should!

    So today's task is to decide whether we should seriously consider Burma as a destination.
    Gleaned from the sites listed below:
    • Country is embracing change since 11/2015 with the election of the "National League for Democracy"
    • Travel between November and March
    • Bagan is very touristy
    • The window is fast closing for experiencing an "untouched" country (untouched by commercialism)
    • Internet is more available than it once was, but bandwidth and electrical outages can make it extremely frustrating to use
    • Public transportation is "immaculate and generally reliable"
    • Cuisine derived from Thai, Indian and Chinese; great fruit
    • Carry toilet paper and bug spray (lots of mosquitos)
    • Crime rate is low; violent crime against foreigners rare
    • Highly recommended: 3-day trek from Kalaw to Inle Lake ($12 pp/day)
    • Many, many festivals. List of traditional festivals. Google images for Festival of Lights.

    Sites visited:
    Good Lonely Planet article: Myanmar Essentials
    Five Reasons to Visit Myanmar in 2015 (US News and World Report)
    A 2015 Travel Guide to Myanmar (Notes about a 3-week trip from an enthusiastic 20-something)
    Myanmar travel site
    Local travel company

    Monday, March 7, 2016

    Culinary Adventures

    John and I would both like to take cooking classes or have some sort of culinary learning experience during our trip. We have agreed to the countries where we would like to do this: Mexico, either Vietnam or Thailand, and Italy. We need to prioritize cuisines in case budget makes us cut one (or two).

    Epitourean.com (a Denver based company) is a "look, book, cook" site for searching for "edible destinations" of all sorts.

    Mexico  (Map showing location of these options)
    Hola Mexico. Tepoztlan, Morelos. This itinerary appeals to me: Prepare traditional and nouvelle Mexican dishes, visit villages in the state of Morelos and experience real Mexican life in a small town environment during your culinary vacation, all while staying on an expansive organic garden tucked into the majestic Tepozteco  7 nights, $1850 pp

    Los Dos. Merida, Mexico. Classes only (no lodging). Cuisine of Yucatan only. 8-hour class. Selected by Travel+Leisure magazine as one of the world's best.

    Sazon. San Miguel de Allende (4 hour drive NW of Mexico City) Shorter classes (1-2 hours). In the Belmond Casa de Sierra Nevada. 15 rooms/22 suites.

    Seasons of My Heart. Oaxaca. Offers shorter (i.e., half-day) classes, culinary immersion courses and culinary tours. The immersion and tours include lodging, meals, classes, transportation. Sample costs:
    • Wednesday class with Etla market tour (full day $85 pp)
    • Guelaguetza course (6 days, $1695 pp) -- this one sounds great!
    • Mexico City - Tepoz - Oaxaca tour (10 days, $2695 pp)
    A Taste of Puebla in Central Mexico. Tlaxcala. 7 days/6 nights, $1798 pp all-inclusive

    Vietnam/Thailand

    Hanoi Cooking Centre. Hanoi. classes and tours. From $60 pp

    Green Bamboo Cooking School  Hoi An  8-3:30. From $40 pp

    Exotic Thailand Culinary and Cultural Adventure. Bangkok. 8 days/7 nights. $2890 pp

    Italy
    Italy may be challenging since I've eliminated nightshades from my diet. But assuming nothing changes in four years, arthritis-wise, I'm probably willing to sacrifice temporary pain for a great experience.


    Friday, March 4, 2016

    Clothes (Kate)

    Today I feel like doing something lightweight: clothes!

    At this point, I'm thinking I'll buy mostly everything new. This seems reasonable since I'll be wearing the same small set of clothes for an entire year and I might as well invest in things that will hold up to the trip, the weather, and my attitude.

    I am already aware of the basic criteria: weight (light); colors (neutral); washability (quick drying); comfort (breathable); and appropriateness (just this side of boring). But I am not aware of the latest in modern fabrics and styles.

    Things to purchase (focusing just on me at the moment):
    Tops --
    Bottoms --
    Shoes -- want to check out these foldable flats
    Skirt/dress -- this skirt is basic and inexpensive, but should hold up for a year; it's the right fabric and weight and has UV protection; wish it had more than just an interior pocket. Will keep looking.
    Wrap -- definitely smitten by these options
    Outerwear -- I like this raincoat and this jacket

    Packing and other tips:
    • REI recommends using packing cubes (already have); using a dryer sheet to keep things smelling fresh (I generally don't like the smell of dryer sheets, so probably not); and folding pants and dresses at the knees to minimize wrinkling (may not be an issue depending on fabric).
    • Rick Steves: “Don’t pack for the worst-case scenario. Pack for the best case-scenario and buy yourself out of any jams.”
    • What Not to Pack: 21 Carry-on Travellers Share Their Packing Mistakes (2015)


    Sites visited:
    REI clothing posts
    TravelSmith (women)
    Merrell (women)
    The travel wrap company